~Sunblocks: Additional info~

In the last sunblock post, I only talked about SPF which tells us how much the sunblock can protect us from the damage of UVB rays.

After a talk with a colleague today, I realized that I left out the protection factor for UVA rays.
So is there a protection factor for UVA rays that is used by the manufacturers?

Currently, there is no consensus regarding an ideal method to assess protection against UVA radiation.

The UVB rays readily causes redness of the skin which allows assess of protection to be easy. UVA rays can cause redness of the skin only after a much larger dose.

If you see some sunblocks/ sunscreens having PA++ on the packaging, it is saying that the product can protect you against UVA rays.
PA stands for Protection Grade of UVA. There is currently no uniform measure of UVA absorption, so PA is only a rough indicator of the amount of UVA protection the suncreen offers.

There are three grades, namely PA+, PA++ and PA+++.
PA+++ offers the most protection. PA+ is adequate for most activities. If you're staying out in the sun for long hours, go for PA++ or higher.
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There are actually 4 methods being used to measure the protection effect.
1. PPF-method (Phototoxic Protection Factor)
2. APF-method (Erythemal UVA-protection Factor)
3. IPD-method (Immediate Pigment Darkening)
4. PPD-method (Persistent Pigment Darkening) or PFA (Protection Factor UVA)

APF and PPD methods are more recommended for determining the UVA protection level.

APF: Similar to SPF asessment method, testing how fast the skin turns red after exposure to UVA rays. But a large amount of radiation is needed to produce redness.

PPD: The protection factor is measured as a ratio of the dose of UVA radiation is needed to cause an obvious pigmentation of sunscreen-treated skin over the dose needed on unprotected skin.

PFA VALUE:	2 to less than 4 = PA+
	4 to less than 8 = PA++
	8 or higher = PA+++

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I mentioned that I prefer to use La Roche Posay Anthelios XL extreme fluide in my last sunblock entry.

La Roche Posay uses the PPD-method to make sure their sunblocks are effective in protecting against UVA rays.

They use a special agent called MEXORYL™ SX which is very photostable. MEXORYL™ SX absorbs the UVA rays, deactivates and releases the absorbed energy to the environment as harmless energy, then repeats the process over and over.

Photostability refers to the ability of a molecule to remain intact when exposed to solar radiation.

Several chemical sunscreens degrade and lose their protective value when exposed to solar radiation. For example, avobenzone exhibits up to a 36% loss after 15 minutes of solar simulated light, while octyl methoxycinnamate loses only 4.5%, whereas Mexoryl-SX is especially photostable and silicone-coated zinc oxide is completely photostable.

And this is why I chose La Roche Posay Anthelios sunblock. This may sound like an advertorial but I never get paid for writing this. I am just recommending according to my own experience with the sunblock. I applied it during my Bali holiday trip and I didn't get sunburnt at all. I turned darker though cos I was too lazy to reapply the sunblock after swimming or some time in the sun. So now I advise all to REAPPLY! =)

~Sunblocks: What you need to know~

In order to prevent getting a sunburn while you are outdoors, you must apply a sunblock or sunscreen at least half an hour before sun exposure.

Majority of the people use the terms "sunblock" and "sunscreen" interchangeably but actually they are not the same.

Sunscreen absorbs ultraviolet rays so that it does not reach your skin while sunblock physically blocks the sun's UV rays.

Sunblocks

Sunblock usually contains titanium dioxide or zinc oxide.
Both provide broad spectrum UVA and UVB protection and are gentle enough for everyday use. Because these are physical blocking agents and not chemicals, they are especially useful for individuals with sensitive skin, as they rarely cause skin irritation.
Although they work well, they are usually opaque, meaning they form a visible white layer on your skin.

Sunscreens
Most sunscreens are composed of several active ingredients.
So a sunscreen that provides broad spectrum protection has a combination of several chemicals with each one blocking a different region of UV light.

The majority of chemical agents used in sunblock work in the UVB region. Only a few chemicals block the UVA region. Chemical agents that block UVA rays too are avobenzone, oxybenzone, and octocrylene.
I see avobenzone more often when I check out sunblocks on the market.

Common active ingredients of sunblock and the type of UV light blocked:

Active Ingredient	Type of UV radiation blocked
Aminobenzoic acid	UV-B
Avobenzone	UV-A
Cinoxate	UV-B
Dioxybenzone	UV-B, UV-A
Homosalate	UV-B
Menthyl anthranilate	UV-A
Octocrylene	UV-B
Octyl methoxycinnamate	UV-B
Octisalate	UV-B
Oxybenzone	UV-B, UV-A
Padimate O	UV-B
Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid	UV-B
Sulisobenzone	UV-B, UV-A
Titanium dioxide (physical)	UV-A/B, broad spectrum
Trolamine salicylate	UV-B
Zinc oxide (physical)	UV-A/B, broad spectrum

What are the differences between UVA, B and C?

UVA rays have the longest wavelengths, followed by UVB, and UVC rays which have the shortest wavelengths.

UVA and UVB rays are transmitted through the atmosphere.

All UVC and some UVB rays are absorbed by the Earth’s ozone layer.

So we usually come into contact with mostly UVA and a small amount of UVB.

UV radiation is classified by wavelength.

• UVB rays have a short wavelength that reaches the outer layer of your skin (the epidermis)
• UVA rays have a longer wavelength that can penetrate the middle layer of your skin (the dermis)

Both UVA and UVB rays can cause damage to your skin. Sunburn is a sign of short-term overexposure, while premature aging and skin cancer are side effects of prolonged UV exposure.
UVB causes the sunburn while UVA causes the premature aging of your skin.

How to choose your sunblock?

Sunblocks comes in a variety of forms.

• Lotions
• Oils
• Gels
• Sticks
• Sprays
• Creams

You can try several types and find the one which works and feels the best to you. For me, I find that creams and sprays give me a sticky feeling. I particularly like La Roche Posay Anthelios Extreme Fluide. It is a very light lotion. Especially good for people with oily skin. It can be applied to the face and body. Water resistant too.

All sunblocks/sunscreens should be applied at least half an hour before sun exposure to allow a protective film to develop, then reapplied after water contact and sweating. Recommended reapplication frequency is every 2 hours.

In general, lotions and gels are the least oily but also the ones that wash off more easily and need to be reapplied more frequently. If you develop a rash or other type of allergic response to a sunscreen, try a different brand with different ingredients or a different form, e.g. lotion vs cream to see if you can tolerate better.

The most common allergic reactions occur with sunscreens that contain PABA-based chemicals. If you develop a rash to a sunblock, check the label to see if PABA is an ingredient. If so, consider avoiding sunblocks that contains this in the future.


Best way is to try a titanium dioxide or zinc oxide containing sunblock as they rarely cause skin irritation and provide very good broad spectrum UV protection.

FAQ: What is SPF and which rating is the best?

All sunblocks have a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) rating.

The SPF rating indicates how long a sunscreen remains effective on the skin. A user can determine how long their sunblock will be effective by multiplying the SPF factor by the length of time it takes for him or her to suffer a burn without sunscreen.

For instance, if you normally develop a sunburn in 10 minutes without wearing a sunscreen, a sunscreen with an SPF of 15 will protect you for 150 minutes (10 minutes multiplied by the SPF of 15).

So does this means that you should buy a product with SPF as high as possible? E.g. Sunplay SPF 130++.

Answer is NO. The protective effect increases insignificantly as the SPF increases. And the higher the SPF, the more chemicals you have on your skin. This increases your possibility of getting a skin allergy with the sunscreen. So the most optimal SPF you should go for is 50 or at least 30.

Although sunscreen use helps minimize sun damage, no product can completely blocks all wavelengths of UV light. Wearing sun protective clothing and avoiding sun exposure from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. will also help protect your skin from overexposure and minimize sun damage.

FAQ: Do we really have to reapply the sunblock/sunscreen frequently? Does it mean that if the product is water-resistant, we do not have to reapply?

Water resistant sunblocks are available for active individuals or those involved in water sports. Some are "water-resistant" or "very water-resistant" or even sweat resistant.

• Water-Resistant sunblock maintains the SPF level after 40 minutes of water immersion
• Very Water-Resistant sunblock maintains the SPF level after 80 minutes of water immersion
• Sweat resistant is the same as water resistant.

So you still need to reapply the sunblock after the stipulated time period.

References:
1. www.dermatology.ucsf.edu/skincancer/General/prevention/Sunscreen.aspx
2. http://www.fda.gov/Radiation-EmittingProducts/RadiationEmittingProductsandProcedures/Tanning/ucm116425.htm

~How to care for sunburnt skin~

How do you know that you have sunburn?

When you have red, painful skin that feels hot to the touch.

Sunburn usually appears within a few hours after sun exposure and may take a day or more to know the full extent and severity of sunburn. It may take from several days to 2 weeks to fade away

If you often get sunburn, you are more likely to get dry, wrinkled skin (pre-mature aging), hyperpigmentation (freckles) and your risk of skin cancer increases.

You should prevent sunburn by protecting your skin with sunblocks or sunscreens whenever you are outdoors. If you do get sunburn, you can try my recommendation later in the post to relieve your pain and speed the healing of your skin.

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Signs and symptoms of sunburn include:

• Pinkness or redness
• Skin that feels warm or hot to the touch
• Pain or tenderness
• Swelling
• Small fluid-filled blisters, which may break
• Headache or fever if sunburn covers a large area

Any part of your body, including your earlobes and scalp, can be sunburnt.

After a few days, your top layer of damaged skin will be removed by this "peeling effect".

After peeling, your skin may temporarily have an irregular color and pattern. Depending on the severity, it may take several days or more for the sunburn to heal.

When should you see a doctor?

If your sunburnt skin is blistering and covers a large portion of your body; or you have a high fever, extreme pain, confusion, nausea or chills at the same time; or your skin does not respond to self treatment within a few days.

If your blisters show signs of infection, e.g. oozing pus, please see a doctor as well.

So what do you do after you sustained a sunburn?

• Apply cold compresses to the affected skin, or take a cool bath or shower.
• Apply 100% pure aloe vera gel to your skin to decrease pain and swelling.
  

You need to apply the aloe vera gel immediately on the same day that you get the sunburn. Or else your skin would not heal as fast as you want it to.

Why do I recommend Aloe Vera?
Aloe Vera contains natural moisturizers to nourish your dried up skin, helps in soothing the pain and has healing properties which helps your damaged skin recover faster.

The advice here is based on my personal experience. Had prevented a lot of pain from the sunburn I had last time because I applied aloe vera gel liberally on my skin a few times on the first and second days.

I have used both Jorubi and Fruit of the Earth brands before. I find both are just as good. But FOTE is cheaper cos the brand is not as established as Jorubi.
You can find both brands available in Unity pharmacies.
You can also approach the friendly pharmacists in Unity for more advice. =)

~Face Cleansing regimen~

Step 1: Remove your makeup

• Apply a small amount of eye makeup remover to a cotton pad.
• Gently swipe the cotton pad across your eyelids and along the lashes.
• Make sure all the mascara, eyeshadow and eyeliner are removed.
• You can use the same remover for the whole face.

Tip: Personally, I use a cleansing milk to remove the makeup on the rest of my face. It is more gentle and moisturising for the face too.

Babaria Aloe Vera Cleansing Milk

Step 2: Wash your face

• Take a 5-cent coin size of liquid cleanser on your palm.
• Lather between your palms first before applying it to your face.
• Massage the cleanser into your skin and then rinse off with lukewarm water.
• Splashing our face with cold water after that does not shrink your pores at all.

Step 3: Dry, tone and moisturise.

• With a soft clean towel, gently blot the face dry.
• Rubbing will leave the skin blotchy and increases your wrinkles more.
• Apply a small amount of toner to a cotton pad and gently swipe from your chin in an upwards motion an from your nose in an outwards motion towards your ears.
• Apply a pea-size amount of moisturiser over your damp skin on your face and neck to seal in moisture. This can also help to conserve your moisturiser. A tiny bit goes a long way on damp skin.

Tip: Using a toner after cleansing your face gives a second round of cleansing. It will clean off remaining makeup, debris and cleanser from your face.

Just be sure that your toner does not contain any alcohol as this will dry your skin, which does no good at all.

Simple Soothing Toner

~How to treat your pimples fast~

Here's how...

· Resist the urge. When you feel a pimple forming, resist the urge to squeeze. All you're doing is traumatizing the area and causing an inflammatory reaction that will result in further swelling, a longer healing time, and most likely a scar.

· Use the pimple busters. If the pimple feels huge, gently press an ice cube on the spot for a few minutes to reduce inflammation.

Use a salicylic acid cleanser, which unclogs the pores;

then apply a spot treatment containing benzoyl peroxide, which kills bacteria and dries out the area. After a few minutes, dot on some oil-free concealer.

· Fade away. If the pimple leaves a pink mark, apply hydrocortisone 1% cream 2-3 times a day for no more than a week to fade the spot, or see your doctor who can prescribe something that will lighten the mark more quickly. And always wearing sunscreen—any kind of skin discoloration will get even darker if you go out in the sun unprotected.

~Skin79 Super Beblesh Balm Triple Function~

Saw an ad in Glow magazine about this product coming to Singapore in May.

Quickly googled it and found many reviews in CozyCot.

Wow! Seems like it is really good.

I am waiting for it to arrive.

Maybe you should do so too. =)

Info from CozyCot (posted by a member):
It is 3 effects functional beblesh balm. By Adenosine and Arbutin ingredients which are effective in whitening, wrinkles impreovement, cultivate more bright and elastic skin.

Intercept UV A and B at the same time and protect your skin exposed from the sun more throughly.

OSMOPUR ingredient of new concept which are mixed sunflower, rice bran, ivy extracts protect skin from various harmful conditions.

Phyto Complex ingredient which is good for skin moisurizing and soothing makes your skin always moist and healthy.

This product has excellent cover function by composition of make-up base and foundation. It can correct your irregularly different skin tones naturally. At the same time by use of fine and soft texture porosity powder is excellent for your skin adhesion and sebum control.

This is W/S shape which is good for skin affinity and it makes your skin light, soft and dry all day without that skin gooey.

You can follow this link to the review page in CozyCot:

http://www.cozycot.com/beauty/product/makeup/face/multipurpose-2-1/others/skin79-super-plus-beblesh-balm-triple-functions

~Sudocrem~ The antiseptic healing cream

Recently, a writer wrote about this miracle cream on Straits Times Urban.
Sudocrem.
It is an antiseptic healing cream.

I checked out the website and found out that it was marketed as nappy rash cream.
But it can also be used for other conditions like eczema, sunburn, minor burns and pimples!

It is the treatment of pimples that I am interested in.

Checked out the ingredients - zinc oxide, benzyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate and hypoallergenic lanolin.

• hypoallergenic lanolin, to help provide emollient properties.

• zinc oxide is an astringent which reduces the loss of tissue fluid.

• benzyl benzoate and benzyl cinnamate are amongst the ingredients of Peru Balsam, recognised for its healing properties

•benzyl alcohol is a weak local anaesthetic which acts to ease localised pain and irritation. It also acts as a disinfectant/antibacterial agent and is responsible for protection against common bacterial contaminants.

Anyway, it is sold in Unity NTUC Healthcare at $12.
So I bought one to try.
I applied it to the pimple on my chin, which I scratched and burst with my itchy finger.
The next day, it dried up miraculously.
Usually, my pimples always become very inflamed after i scratched them.
This means that it does work.

Then I tried it on my sisters' pimples.
Theirs dried up the next day too.
Wow!

You should try it too. =)

P.S. Here's the link to the sudocrem website.